The Alentejo is the slow, wide south — cork-oak plains, whitewashed hill towns, marble villages and a long, empty Atlantic coast that most foreign visitors never reach. It's the largest region in Portugal and the one that best rewards a car and an unscheduled afternoon.
Évora is the anchor, a Roman-temple town within medieval walls, but the region spreads outward to Reguengos and Vidigueira for wine, to Monsaraz and Marvão for castles, and to the Costa Vicentina for cliff-backed surf. It's the deepest, slowest part of the country.