Espetada
Beef skewers grilled over wood and basted in garlic butter — Madeira's signature meat, eaten at the table from the skewer.
A primitive, sublime ritual of meat and wood smoke that makes a mockery of delicate fine dining. It is the quintessential expression of Madeiran mountain hospitality.
The simplicity of the seasoning ensures that the quality of the beef takes center stage, heightened by the rustic charm of the cooking method.
Where it comes from
Traditional espetadas were once prepared using skewers fashioned from fresh bay laurel branches, which provided a natural, herbal seasoning to the meat. The practice emerged in the mountainous interior of the island, where shepherds and laborers would cook their midday meals over communal fires. Today, the practice has become a highly social affair, symbolizing the island's robust communal spirit and love for open-flame cooking.
The dish
Cubes of beef are rubbed with coarse sea salt and garlic, then threaded onto a bay-wood skewer to be roasted over an open flame. The wood imparts a subtle, floral smoke to the meat, while the garlic butter drips down the metal to create a savory glaze that begs for a hunk of bolo do caco to soak it up.
Key ingredients
- 01Beef cubes
- 02Coarse sea salt
- 03Garlic
- 04Bay laurel wood
- 05Butter
When to eat it
Best enjoyed on a cool evening in the mountains, accompanied by a glass of strong local red wine.
Why you might skip it
Diners expecting a refined, plated presentation may find the raw utility of the hanging iron skewer intimidating.
Good to know
Visit established grill houses in the hills of Câmara de Lobos, where the tradition of the hanging skewer is strictly observed.
Serve with
Blandy's Wine Lodge
The Blandy family's Madeira lodge in central Funchal — the oldest and most visitor-friendly of the Madeira lodges, with a museum, cooperage and guided tastings spanning the four grape styles from dry Sercial to rich Malvasia.
D'Oliveiras
A historic Funchal lodge holding extraordinary old stocks of Madeira dating back to the 1850s, beloved by serious Madeira collectors; small, old-school and the place to taste very old vintages.
Eat
Bolo de Mel
A dark, spiced honey and nut cake — Madeira's great sweet, originally made with sugar-cane molasses.
Bolo do Caco
A flat, round sweet-potato bread cooked on a hot stone — Madeira's everyday bread, and the base of its best sandwich.
Milho Frito
Fried cubes of cornmeal and kale — Madeira's garlicky answer to fries.
Where to find it
Funchal
Madeira's capital — a bay city of markets, gardens, wine lodges, and a tiled old town with a spectacular New Year's fireworks show.
Madeira
A subtropical volcanic island of levadas, peaks, Laurisilva forest and a year-round spring climate — a destination guide in itself.