Vereda do Fanal

The allure lies in the haunting beauty of the ancient Ocotea foetens trees, which stand like ghostly sculptures across a vast, rolling volcanic plateau. It offers a meditative, otherworldly hiking experience that feels like stepping into a fairy tale, especially when the mountain fog rolls in to obscure the horizon.

Skip this if you are looking for strenuous, high-altitude alpine terrain or dramatic ocean cliffs, as the landscape is relatively flat and focused on forest aesthetics. It is also a poor choice during periods of high wind or driving rain, where the lack of shelter makes for a miserable experience.

This trail follows a path through the Paul da Serra plateau, typically covering about 10.8 kilometers (out and back or part of a larger PR13 connection), though most visitors focus on the central plateau area. The terrain is mostly grass and earth, categorized as easy to moderate, with relatively low elevation gain compared to coastal levada hikes.

Fanal is a protected area of the Laurisilva forest, a relict vegetation type that once covered much of Southern Europe. Its current appearance is a result of centuries of grazing and natural environmental adaptation, now strictly conserved under the Madeira Natural Park management.

Accessible via the ER209 road, which traverses the mountain pass; there is a small parking area near the Fanal forestry post.

The area is an open plateau, allowing for free-roam hiking, though it is best to stick to the well-marked PR13 signage to avoid getting lost in the dense fog.

The biggest mistake is assuming it will be sunny; the plateau has its own microclimate and can drop 10 degrees Celsius and become completely opaque with fog in minutes. Many visitors arrive without layers, expecting coastal Madeira temperatures.

Adventure seekers looking for intense vertical gain or those with limited mobility who struggle with uneven, muddy, or grassy terrain.

Bring waterproof gear, sturdy hiking boots to handle muddy patches, and a headlamp if starting early. There are no facilities, water, or toilets on-site, so pack everything you need.